![]() ![]() It was important as I needed the knob shaft to be in the center of drilled opening. 3D design of potentiometer holder (OnShape) for my passive volume controlģD printer is much more precise than me and unlike me doesn’t hurt itself during work. Some other 3D printed parts were used in my Glidophone project. 3D print is generally very useful for internal standoffs, supports and spacers, as is usually strong, but ugly. After fast measurements I designed a part in OnShape and send the project to my friend, a proud Prusa owner. I own only a small Proxxon 12V system drill stand, so extremely precise positioned 6 mm hole was way out of my capabilities.Īt first, I was going to use a PCB laminate with hand-drilled mounting hole as a potentiometer holder, but after a while I thought it will be much simpler to print a whole bracket on a 3D printer. This means the potentiometer must be also placed very precisely, while this means the fixing hole must be drilled near perfectly. The problem appeared – how to mount a potentiometer? Sometimes you know when you’ve done a good job – this was the moment I’ve opened a beer to celebrate □ĭrilled hole was exactly 38 mm in diameter, only 1 mm larger than the knobs. Result was not bad, not bad at all, but I wouldn’t like to repeat it. Filing and smoothing took just few minutes, as the case material is relatively soft. The rest of the job was finished with semicircular files. Almost finished opening – still a bit of file love is needed (protective gloves would be also a nice add-on) Of course, I forgot to wear protective gloves and the remaining edges were sharper than I’ve expected. Then I used slightly larger drill and small round file to join holes where possible and removed the irregular interior of the circle. Beginning of drilling/filing a knob opening L uckily it doesn’t have to look beautiful now. I marked the center of the case and draw a 38 mm circle with calipers, then drilled a series of small holes inside it. ![]() (A very conveniently thing to say if you are sick of spray painting). I decided to use small 1590LM aluminum case from Tayda Electronics, cheap and robust, unpainted with raw industrial feel. Initially I wanted also to use mini jacks for input and output and an additional regular 6,3 mm jack as second output for professional headphones (to eliminate the need for an adapter), but the idea was dumped as case turned out to be too pokey. At this point I knew only where knob will be placed and that’s all. I went with the “greedy” design approach – I was thinking what will be the next step after I finished previous one. Because I never experimented with such knob placement and haven’t seen a lot of them in DIY audio stuff, so it was very tempting. I wanted to get a cool safe look with a very tight-fitting knob recessed into a case. This is where things got more interesting (but they were still felt quite boring back then). 1x Tayda Electronics 1590LM aluminum case (a bit similar to Hammond 1590LM, but cheaper).2x mini-jack socket, Lumberg 1503-08 (small and high quality),.1x SCI RN-114A potentiometer knob (similar to Tayda Electronics TE-KN-138A, but with smoother typography),.1x dual Alpha Taiwan 100 kB (linear) potentiometer, RV16A01F-41-15R1-B100K. ![]() For more info on theory please refer to homepage of the original designer. The interesting thing is, it uses linear potentiometer along with load resistor to get smooth increase in volume level. It is 1:1 copy of Better Volume Control from Elliott Sound Products. The schematic of passive volume control includes only 5 main components: dual linear potentiometer, 2 resistors and 2 mini jack sockets. And forgive me, it will be more a photostory than a proper technical post. However, apart from its simplicity, there are several interesting techniques I used and would like to share with you. This project was so incredibly boring, that at first I didn’t want to write about it. The purpose of my passive volume control build was simple – I just needed an analog regulation of headphones loudness my laptop was missing (and nothing feels better than a potentiometer knob in your hand).
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